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When it comes to craftsmanship, Hermès is in a league of its own. Known for using only the finest materials, Hermès extends its attention to detail beyond leather—into the hardware that adorns each design. From timeless classics to rare collector's items, Hermès hardware is an essential part of what makes their pieces so iconic.
Let’s take a closer look at the different types of Hermès hardware and what sets each one apart.
Types of Hermès Hardware
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1. Palladium Hardware (PHW)
The most widely used hardware by Hermès, Palladium belongs to the platinum group of metals. It’s prized for its brilliant, silvery-white shine—brighter than silver, and more valuable than gold. Resistant to corrosion and scratches, palladium is frequently found on bags, belts, and jewelry. Limited-edition Birkins and Kellys often feature Palladium hardware, adding to their rarity and appeal.
2. Gold Hardware
Gold hardware—whether in yellow or rose gold—is a timeless choice for many Hermès lovers. Known for its opulent look, it’s often reserved for the brand’s most luxurious creations, making it a favorite for special occasions.
3. Brushed Gold Hardware
A matte twist on traditional gold, Brushed Gold features 18-karat gold plating with fine, directional brushing. The finish not only lends a more understated look but also minimizes the appearance of scratches. This elegant variation is often seen on bags and belts.
4. Ruthenium Hardware
Ruthenium offers a bold, modern edge with its deep, gunmetal-gray tone. Durable and corrosion-resistant, it’s frequently featured on lizard skin bags and select accessories. A favorite among those who want something darker and more fashion-forward.
5. Permabrass Hardware
Permabrass delivers a warm, gold-toned finish with a matte effect. Durable and resistant to scratches, it’s a subtle yet stylish choice for daily wear. Often found on both bags and belts, it combines practicality with elegance.
6. Brushed Palladium
For those who love the cool tone of Palladium but prefer a more subdued finish, Brushed Palladium is ideal. It undergoes the same brushing treatment as Brushed Gold, resulting in a matte, less reflective surface.
7. Rose Gold Hardware
Created by mixing gold with copper, Rose Gold has a soft, pinkish hue. The added copper not only brings a romantic warmth to the metal but also increases its durability. Rose Gold hardware pairs beautifully with neutral or cream-toned leathers.
8. PVD (Physical Vapor Deposition)
Used exclusively on the coveted So Black collection, PVD coating transforms hardware into a deep black finish. Rare and highly collectible, PVD is used sparingly due to its delicate nature—it’s prone to scratching and cannot be repaired. Most recently, it appeared on the elusive Midnight Faubourg Birkin.
9. Lacquered Hardware
Seen primarily on Constance bags, lacquered (enamel) hardware enhances the iconic “H” clasp. It not only adds a pop of color but also provides added durability and shine.
Special Edition Hermès Hardware
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10. Diamond Hardware
At the pinnacle of Hermès hardware is the Diamond-encrusted variation. Featuring 18-karat white gold set with high-quality VVS F diamonds (nearly 10 carats for a 35cm Birkin), this ultra-exclusive hardware is typically paired with exotic skins. Though white gold is the standard, a few rare pieces exist in yellow gold.
11. Guilloché Hardware
One of the rarest finishes, Guilloché features a fine diamond-pattern engraving inspired by traditional metalworking techniques. First introduced on Kelly bags in the early 2000s (including a brief appearance in gold), Guilloché hardware was later produced in limited quantities between 2012 and 2014—only in Palladium.
Choosing the Right Hermès Hardware
Every Hermès collector has their own criteria when choosing hardware. For some, it's about matching metals to their jewelry or wardrobe. Others might opt for practicality—like favoring brushed finishes for everyday wear—or prefer hardware that complements the leather’s tone. Then there are those who stay loyal to what’s worked in the past.
So, how do you decide which hardware suits you best?
Tags: Hermes, Hardware, Luxury, Bags, Accessories, Fashion Guide, Collector's Items