Chains, coats, and leather dominate a brooding yet chic second chapter
This season, Hermès returned with the second part of its Autumn-Winter 2024 presentation, deepening the vision introduced earlier in Paris. Nadège Vanhee solidified her direction—doubling down on a future-forward, dystopian tone laced with utilitarian flair and fierce elegance.
Rather than softening the earlier show’s themes, Part Two leaned into moodiness with theatrical lighting and militaristic silhouettes. Garments were functional yet dramatic—evoking a sense of survival chic tailored for the Hermès woman navigating an unpredictable world.
The Androgynous Feminine
Tailored cuts balanced masculinity and femininity, enhanced by structured pieces that nodded to historical wartime styles but with a refined, modern twist. Makeup was minimal. Details were subtle yet powerful—emphasizing strength over softness.
Jumpsuits
The collection delivered a host of jumpsuit options, each adorned with zippers, belts, and utility-style fastenings. Practical and polished, these one-piece looks radiated a utilitarian charm that’s ready for the streets—or a sci-fi set.
Leather and Craftsmanship
Signature Hermès leather took center stage, used not just in accessories but as full ensembles. Paneling, straps, and technical accents celebrated artisanal skill while embracing futuristic aesthetics.
Outerwear as Armor
Oversized coats and cloaks wrapped models in leather and shearling layers, transforming each outfit into a statement of strength. These commanding silhouettes elevated the concept of protective dressing to high fashion.
Chains & Hardware
From chunky cuffs to industrial-inspired belts, metallic accents added edge and weight to otherwise soft garments. Statement hardware reminded us of both bondage and armor—but with elegant restraint.
The Bags
This second act put the spotlight on heritage and innovation. The Plume returned, alongside the oversized Etrivière Fourre-Tout. The Arçon and Kelly Danse made stylish appearances, joined by practical iterations of the Polochon and Elan bags. Straps, chains, and adaptability were key.
